We’re tucked up in a bay, hiding from bad weather, on the island of Vulcano in the Aelolian group (Stromboli, Lipari etc.), under one of the two active volcanoes in the island group. Smells like rotten eggs a lot of the time. From Acitrezza we stopped at Taormina. Then it was an interesting, windy trip up the Straits of Messina, past the whirlpools of Scylla and Charibdis, which we didn’t see. Almost turned back, but persisted through the wind and then the Tyrrenhian Sea was like a millpond – until yesterday. Lipari next (a smaller version of Malaga, maybe better cuisine).